Vibrant and inky dark, the 2017 Gandona is densely packed with rich and expressive notes of blackberries and cream, violets, red licorice and saddle leather. It is substantial and expansive in structure, opening far and wide across the palate, building gently but firmly. Supple and mouth-coating tannins merge seamlessly with detailed layers of cocoa nib, black cherries, candied orange peel and baking spices. As the wine progresses, the more sanguine qualities of crushed rock and graphite typical of this mountain site emerge beneath the fruit, intensifying and furthering the miles-long finish.